Piazza Maggiore and Piazza del Nettuno
Piazza Grande is what the locals call the true square of Bologna: Piazza Maggiore. Built in 1200 to meet the needs of the people to have a place to hold markets, it took on its present form in the 1400s. Many years later it was expanded with the addition of Piazza del Nettuno.
A curiosity: from 1860 to 1945 Piazza Maggiore was dedicated to Vittorio Emanuele II. In 1945 the equestrian monument portraying him was transferred to the Giardini Margherita where it currently stands.
The Piazza and buildings surrounding it tell the history of Bologna throughout the centuries and this is why your visit of the city cannot but start here:
- Palazzo dei Notai: commissioned by the Società dei Notai as the headquarters of their association and its archives of notary documents dates back to 1381.
- Palazzo D’Accursio: today the site of the Palazzo Comunale [City Hall] is a group of buildings collected by the city government throughout the years, starting at the end of the 1200s; the complex also includes the home of Accursio (a law teacher in the Bolognese Studio). It became the headquarters of the city government in 1336. The Palazzo houses The Municipal Art Collection, consisting of works purchased between the 1800s and 1900s by the city government; the collection also includes works from the 18th-century and several from the Middle Ages; the palace also houses the Morandi Museum, which holds the collection of this painter’s works.
- Palazzo del Podestà: the first headquarters of the city government, it was built in 1200 along with the Piazza.
- Palazzo dei Banchi: started in 1421, it takes its name from the activity carried out inside, currency exchange and banking.
- Basilica di San Petronio: dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Bishop Petronius, this church is one of the largest buildings in the Catholic world.
- Fontana del Nettuno: situated in the center of the square by the same name, this is one of the most beautiful fountains of the 1500s. If you take a guided tour you can go down under Piazza Maggiore and marvel at this ancient yet incredibly modern structure.
- Palazzo Re Enzo and Torre dell'Arengo: built in 1245 as an expansion of the Palazzo del Podestà.
The Walls and Gates
Until the early 1900s, the city of Bologna was embraced by city walls which were almost entirely destroyed to build the current heavily traveled bypasses. In the area of the historical center some ruins still stand in certain spots along the boulevards. The walls cannot be dated precisely; increasingly large rings corresponding to different eras accompanied the growth of the urban fabric. Along the entire perimeter of the more recent walls 12 gates were built, complete with drawbridges and external moats. When the walls were torn down, unfortunately two of the gates were eliminated: Porta San Mamolo and Porta San’Isaia. All the others are still standing along the boulevards circling the city thanks to Carducci and Alfonso Rubbiani who pointed out the historical value of the wall complex.
Churches and Oratories
For centuries the second largest city of the papal state after Rome, Bologna abounds in religious buildings of great artistic and cultural value.
To visit them all can be interesting but it is recommended to choose a few and focus on their details and histories:
- Church of San Pietro: home of the archbishopric of Bologna, this church was built around the year 1000 but its current appearance dates back to 1605.
- Church of S. Petronio: dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Bishop Petronius, this basilica in Gothic style is the fifth-largest church in the world.
- The Basilica of S. Luca: considered one of the city’s emblems, this basilica was built during the 12th century on the Colle della Guardia. Its portico is famous, more than 3½ km long, comprising 666 archways that lead to the holy building.
- Church of S. Francesco: an example of French Gothic that resembles Notre Dame de Paris. On Tuesdays in the square in front of it the church holds a market selling fresh flowers.
- Basilica Santo Stefano: known as "Le Sette Chiese", this is one of the most evocative spiritual places of Bologna, made up of buildings dedicated to the passion of Christ. The core dates back to the eighth century and it was built on a pagan temple dedicated to Isis. Kept here are the remains of Bishop Petronius who planned the construction of the basilica by conceiving of it as a reproduction of the sacred sepulcher of Jerusalem (has also called Jerusalem bononiensis).
Piazza Santo Stefano where the basilica stands is considered one of the most beautiful and unique squares in Italy.
- Santa Maria della Vita: this is the church of the first hospital of Bologna, founded in 1260. Inside is the terracotta group of Marie Piangenti [Weeping Marias], made in 1463 by Niccolò dell'Arca.
- San Michele in Bosco: this is the architectural complex built in one of the most panoramic spots of the Bologna Hills, comprising the church and the adjacent former convent of the Olivetans, one of the mostly stately convents in Italy. The structure dates back to the Middle Ages and it underwent changes when the monks settled there. Noteworthy is the octagonal cloister from the end of the 16th century and the paintings of the Carracci school.
- Basilica of San Domenico: one of the most beautiful churches of Bologna, it houses the relics of the founder of the Dominican order. Inside you can admire the works of Niccolò dell'Arca, Giunta Pisano, Guido Reni, Michelangelo and Guercino.
- Oratory of S. Cecilia: located in proximity to the Church of S. Giacomo, the Oratory of S. Cecilia was the parish church in 1323; inside you can see a marvelous cycle of frescoes depicting the life of St. Cecilia (St. Valerian’s wife) dating back to the early 1500s.
The Porticoes
Bologna is a city of porticoes, holding the world record of 38 km through the historical center. These are most impressive in the 3.5 km portico of S. Luca (the longest in the world) the porticoes of the Certosa, those of Via Mazzini and those of modern Bologna.
The origin of the porticoes is not certain but they were developed mostly during the 1200s. In fact in 1288 the Commune of Bologna made it obligatory for anyone who built buildings in the city to build porticoes as well; moreover the porticoes had to be a minimum height of 2.66 m to allow the transit of people on horseback.
One of the porticoes most loved by the people of Bologna is without a doubt the Pavaglione, which dates back to the middle 1500s. In ancient times it housed the market of silk cocoons. Its archways stand on Piazza Maggiore and it is pleasant to stroll under them to look at the shop windows, even in the winter, and even when it’s raining.
The luxury of the porticoes: going out while it is raining without needing an umbrella.
Bologna and its ancient waterways
To see the city today one would never think that it used to have numerous canals and waterways.
In addition to being used for navigation these waterways were also used for farming and weaving. In fact in 1300 Bologna was a well-known center for the working of silk and it kept up that tradition until 1800. The Bologna looms had particular characteristics. They were not run manually but by systems situated in the cellars of the buildings which used the water power of the canals by means of drains.
The cocoons produced in the Bologna hinterland were brought to the city and sold to silk merchants in a marketplace held in one of the following places, depending on the historical era: Piazza Maggiore, Corte Galluzzi, Via D’Azeglio or under the portico of Pavaglione.
Some of the names of the streets have remained from the past (Via Riva di Reno, Via delle Moline,Via del Porto) and a few charming views can still be seen, such as the “finestrella di Via Piella” which overlooks the canal of the Moline.
Most of the ancient canals were later covered. A restoration of these underground areas has made it possible to visit them in some points. We suggest you combine this activity with a stroll on ground level and a visit to the Bagni di Mario (an ingenious complex invented to draw water for feeding the Fontana del Nettuno [Neptune Fountain] which dates back to the 1500s), as well as the Museo del Patrimonio Industriale [Museum of Industrial Heritage] to learn about the productive activities in Bologna and their evolution throughout the centuries.
The Towers
Giacomo Leopardi referred to Bologna as the towered city and indeed it has a long tradition of tower building that dates back to the Middle Ages.
Between the 12th and 13th centuries the prevalence of towers in the city apparently made it seem like a small medieval Manhattan. It is not certain how many there were exactly but it appears that there were at least a hundred. Today there are hardly 20, amongst which the Two Towers (Torre Asinelli 97 meters high and Torre Garisenda 48 m high), making up one of the most popular symbols of the city of Bologna.
Il Quadrilatero [The Quad] - Ancient workshops and historical shops
One of the most emblematic areas of Bologna is the area known as the Quadrilatero, delimited by Piazza Maggiore,Via Rizzoli,Via Castiglione,Via Farini,Piazza Galvani, Via dell’Archiginnasio and Piazza della Mercanzia.
Since the Middle Ages this part of the historical center has been the fulcrum of commercial and productive life of Bologna, hosting markets, workshops and shops that to this day represent the excellent manufacturing and gastronomic tradition of the city.
It is captivating to walk along the streets of the picturesque medieval market where, if you pay attention, you will notice the historical details in the signs, furnishings and doorways of this part of town.
Here are some of the names and details to notice while you stroll and shop in this area:
The names of some streets: Clavature [Key/Club Makers], Pescherie Vecchie [Old fishmongers], degli Orefici [Goldsmiths], Calzolerie [Cobblers] ….that clearly indicate the activities carried out there, onlysome of which have been maintained to the present era.
Via Clavature: for example here you will find the Cesteria [basket-making shop] dating back to the early 1900s, one of the few remaining in the city. It is interesting to note Another interesting site are the shops with painted metal shop windows, wall showcases and panel signs from the early 1900s such as those of Argenteria Stefani, Ditta Giulio Schiavina, Bottega della Luce.
Via Drapperie: here you will find the Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo, established at the end of the 1700s to sharpen blades, and one of the most famous bakeries in Bologna “Paolo Atti”. This shop is joined to the one located in via Caprarie by a series of corridors. The first one is in Art Nouveau style of the late 19th-century. Both deserve a visit so you can taste and purchase their delicious specialties. Another name to remember is that of the centuries-old Tamburini salsamenteria [shop that mixed spices for curing meat], the undisputed Temple of Bolognese gastronomy.
Via dei Musei: one of the oldest bookshops of Bologna is “Libreria Nanni” and some of its furnishings are still those from around the end of the 1800s; on the outside the Parisian 1920s style book stalls resemble those of the left bank.
Via de’ Foscherari: one of the oldest antique book stores of Bologna, Veronese specializes in prints and publications regarding the city. At number 19 in the courtyard you’ll find a goldsmith’s shop established in 1927, Ambrosi. It has the old equipment used for this trade and a collection of wax seals made by the founder.
These are just a few of the many treats you can enjoy while on your walk around the heart of Bologna.
The city’s parks
Even in Bologna you can enjoy some green areas -- you can relax in the cool shade in the summer or walk serenely on autumn or spring days.
- Giardini Margherita: this is the most popular public Bolognese Park and it is situated between Via Murri and Via Castiglione, a short distance from the historical center.
- Parco Montagnola: immersed in the San Vitale quarter, this park is the oldest one of Bologna; it opened to the public in the second half of the 1600s.
- Parco Cavaioni: in the Santo Stefano quarter is one of the largest hill parks of the city.
- Villa Spada: this villa has a park inside it with a spectacular view of the Bologna Hills, as well as an interesting Tapestry Museum.
- Villa della Rose: the Garden of Villa delle Rose is a small green area along via Saragozza where the 18th-century style villa is situated. The park also affords a lovely vista of the initial stretch of the San Luca portico.
The museums
Bologna abounds in museum attractions. There are more than 40 museums, most of which belong to the City or the University. In addition to the permanent collections there are often temporary exhibitions of national and international appeal.
Besides those mentioned above, the following museums are worth a visit:
- Pinacoteca Nazionale [National Gallery]: featuring the works of Carracci, Giotto, Vitale da Bologna, Raffaello, Guido Reni, Parmigianino – works from the 1200s - 1700s.
- Museo Civico Archeologico [City Archaeological Museum]: located in Palazzo Galvani, this museum has findings from the Roman and Etruscan eras and prehistoric times, as well of one of the largest Egyptian collections of Europe.
- Museo Civico Medievale [Civic Medieval Museum]: located in Palazzo Ghisilardi Fava, tells the story of medieval Bologna.
- MAMbo: the new Modern Art Museum which opened on 5 May 2007. Here you can see one of the largest contemporary art collections in Italy, having over 4000 works that range from drawings to paintings, sculptures to installations, photography to videos. Some of the collections of these works are periodically exhibited by rotation; the fundamental activity of the museum is to hold exhibitions that focus on contemporary artists and movements significant to the history of the visual arts in the 20th century.
The Sala Borsa
The Sala Borsa is located in Palazzo D’Accursio, in the old location of the City Hall, overlooking Piazza Maggiore. As you enter the hall you find yourself in front of a crystal floor through which you can see ancient excavations: from the first Villanovan settlements of the seventh century B.C. to the Etruscan Felsina and Bononia of the Roman era founded in 189 B.C.
After having housed the City Hall, the Sala Borsa then became the home of a multimedia library in 2001 and holds over 250,000 documents that can also be consulted online.
Jewish ghetto and museum
In the 1400s Bologna was a major center of Jewish studies because it had printing works that printed sacred texts and the writings of various rabbis.
In 1556 the Jews were relegated to the area of the ghetto, which you can still see today in its original urbanistic structure, an intricate labyrinth of narrow streets. At the end of the 1500s the Jews were expelled from the city and allowed to return only in the late 1800s.
Only one place was authorized in those years to lodge Jews who by chance were passing through Bologna: the Osteria del Cappello Rosso. To this day there is a hotel by the same name in the center of Bologna in Via Fusari.
Casa Carducci
Situated near the remains of the ancient city walls of Porta Maggiore and Porta Santo Stefano, this structure was the residence of Giosuè Carducci for the last 18 years of his life. Currently a home-museum has been set up inside with a library of approximately 40,000 books, amongst which the volumes of the poet himself. In the adjacent garden is a monument dedicated to him.
A return to the past
In addition to the “classic” monuments to see in Bologna, you will want to take a short walk to admire some of the historical houses. For example: in via Capo di Lucca, from 9 - 25, you will still find the houses commissioned by the University of Moline in 1516; the buildings were used to lodge the millers who worked at the plants along the canal that still flows next to it. In via Clavature at number 16 and 18 are the Schiavina houses, built in 1200. Inside they still have projections with wooden beams and corbels. At via Marsala 12 is Palazzo Grassi (now the Officers’ Club), a mid-13th century building with a high portico and slender wooden columns stilate. On Strada Maggiore at number 19 is Casa Isolani, a 13th century building with a typical portico of wooden columns. Finally at via S. Nicolò 2 is Casa Rubini, a building from the 14th century, also with portico and wooden columns.
Montagnola Market
During your visit to the city on the week-end a walk around the market held in Piazza VIII Agosto and Parco della Montagnola might be appealing for finding good deals on vintage clothing and accessories.
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